Shirt-making system



M. L. KAPLAN SHIRT MAKING SYSTEM Filed May 13. 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet l Aril 17, 192s. 1,666,291

M. .L. KAPLAN SHIRT MAKING SYSTEM Filed Mayls. 192v 2 Sheets-Sheet 2[1513* L J 1 s fikmws L 1127 1. fl/Y Patented Apr. 17, 1928.

PATENT OFFICE.

MQRRIS L. KAPLA N, OF HAZLETON, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHIRT-MAKING sYs'rEM.

Application filed May 13, 1927. Serial No. 191,180.

My present invention relates to an improved shlrt making system for usein the manufacture of mens shirts with collars at-' tached as well aswith detachable collars. The primary object of my invention is theprovision of a detachable collar or an attached collar, for use with ashirt, that will not shrink after being laundered and prepared for themarket, and will not shrink when laundered by the wearer of the shirt.By the utilization of the system of my in: vention in the manufacture ofshirts and their collars, whether attached or detachable, the collar isshrunken to its minimum size before the garment is placed on the market,and therefore further shrinking of the collar is prevented. The goods,or material, from which the collar is made is shrunk to the requireddegree, before the pattern of the collar is laid out on the material,and the material of the shirt need not be shrunk at this time. Incarrying out my invention the'pattern for the various arts of the shirt,except the collar and colar bands, .is laid out on the material, andfrom this material, a block or section of sufticient size to furnish thecollar, is out, then shrunk, and then marked with the pattern of thecollar, and further treated, as will hereinafter be more fully pointedout and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings I have illustrated a lay out for a shirt(except for the collar) and a lay out or pattern for the collar,together with appliances or machines utilized in the shirt makingsystem.

Figure 1 is a plan view showing a portion of a pattern for the variousparts of a shirt,

the pattern being laid on the goods ormaterial from which the shirt isto be made, and a dotted section or blank is designated thereon for thecollar pattern.

Figure 2 is a plan View of the section of material cut from the shirtpattern or lay.

Figure 2 is plan viewof the collar pat-- tern laid out on the piece ofmaterial previously cut from the main piece and shrunken.

Figure 3 is a perspective view of a rotary washing machine which may beused in the process of washing and shrinking the collar material, as 3.

Figure t is a perspective view of a drier or rotary extractor which maybe used for extracting the moisture from the collarnaterial after it hasleft the washer,

Figure is a perspective view showing a press and the manner of pressingthe collarmaterial before the collar pattern is laid out on thematerial.

While I have shown in the drawings only one lay for the shirt and a layfor the collar, it will be understood that the pattern for the shirt isusually cut in stacks or niles, and the pattern for the collar is also'cut in stacks or piles. Thus Figure 2 shows a single piece of materialwith the lay for the collar on it, while Figure 5 shows a larger piecewith space for a group of collar-patterns.

' In Figure 1 the strip or piece of goods 1, from which the shirt is tobe cut, is shown with the back, two fronts, cuiis etc. marked thereon.In marking the pattern on the strip of goods a space indicated by dottedlines 2 is provided, and this material is later cut from the strip intoa blank 3 which is of sufficient size to permit it to be shrunken, andyet remain of proper dimensions to receive the collar pattern. Thiscollar-section 3 is first shrunk to a smaller length as indicated by thesection 4 in Figure 2 and the top and bottom parts of the collar as 5and 6, and bands 7 are then laid out on this section as a collarpattern;

In carrying out my system of manufacturing the shirts and collars, Iemploy a rotary washer, as 8 into which the section 3, or a largersection 3, is introduced and laundered a period of time suflicienttoshrink the material to the desired degree. After the material is removedfrom the washer,' it is placed in a rotary drier or extractor 9 fromwhich the moisture is extracted, and then the shrunken and dried sectionis ready to be pressed in a presser or pressing machine 10. Afterleaving the pressing machine the section 3 or 3f is ready to have thecollar pattern applied thereto for guidance in cutting outthe parts ofthe collar.

It will be understood that the lining material of the collar is alsoshrunk before being cutand incoporatedin the collar, to preventwrinklingand insure a smooth outer face or' surface for the collar.

\Vhen the collar-material is placed in the press the material is fittedlengthwise, in the machine and flat with the width of the goods betweenthe two thumbs in Figure 5. Then as the material is laid fiat on thepress it is slightly stretched between the thumbs, and as a result thelength of the material is shrunk or shortened, and the press, whenapplied to the goods, maintains this shrunken condition. The goods arethus shrunk as they are laundered in the Washer 8, and are manuallyshrunk also, as they are placed in the press for smoothing, and as aresult the goods have been shrunk to the minimum condition andthereafter the collar maintains its designated and exact size.

When colored goods or material is .used, it will be apparent that thecolored blank 3 or 3 may become bleached or washed out by beingsubmitted to the washing process, in which event the collar wouldpresent a shade of color different than the unlaundered c01- ored shirt.To restore the original color and luster of the shrunken collar-blank,the lat-- ter is immersed in a liquid color-restoring material, whichmixture may be a solution of water, salt, and ink-blue. This mixture isthoroughly commingled to provide a liquid solution and thecollar-material is immersed in and remains in this solution for theproper and correct time to restore the color or shade, in order that thecollar may present the same color and shade as the of the shirt.

Before the collar material is pressed, in order that a luster-may beapplied thereto, after the color hasbeen restored, the material isplaced in a mixture of water and ricematerial starch and agitated whilein a washing machine for a time, after which it is removed and partiallydried, and the damp material is spread on the press, and smoothed out orspread out flat for the press. Before the press is operated a liquidsolution of water, borax and wax is applied to the material, and thenwhen the latter is pressed the original color, luster, and appearance ofthe collar is proiiided'like that of the shirt.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent is-,

1. A system of shirt making comprising the steps of first laying out apattern of the parts in a piece of material, then cutting out a blanksection of the material, subjecting said blank section to a shrinkingtreatment, and finally laying out a pattern for the collar or the neckband of the shirt on said section.

:2. A system of shirt making comprising l) laying out a pattern of theparts in a piece of material with the exception of the collar parts and(2) leaving a blank sect-ion in the piece of material (3) subjectingsaid-- blank sectiononly to a shrinking treatment and (4:) laying out apattern for the collar of the shirt on said section.

In testimony whereof I have atfixcd my signature.

' MORRIS L. KAPLAN.

